Had my first surf since Frosty’s revenge (dislocation of my little pinkie at a nearby reef) at my local break the other day. Have to say the surf was really bad, on shore slop AND backing off in all the gullies… BUT it was great to paddling around in the ocean again. Hope to get back to normal in the near future so postings should be on the rise again.
Here’s a pic of my local break on a BIG day back in February… think 3 times overhead and no one out.
