Sunday, April 27, 2008
Homer in Dunedin:
"I was very excited when I was invited to ride this monster of a board, as I had been overseas for most of its time in Dunedin and had missed out so far.
I awoke the morning of the big day to find the large south swell we had was still hanging around, this was a concern as I had no idea what this board would ride or paddle like.
I made my way to the chosen spot to find Jay already had the olo in the water - seeing this I grabbed my 9'1 woodie and started to paddle out getting worked and having to make my way back to the channel for another attempt.
Finally making it out the back the last thing I wanted was another 4 feet of board, but that's what I got.
I was now seeing this beautiful board for the first time, I was on it, out the back, freaking out.
I paddled about 20 metres further out the back, to make sure no clean up sets would touch me. The board felt great I love the concave deck its so comfortable, like it was made for me.
Now sitting way out the back I double check the legrope and wait.
First set comes and goes I have realised this board is massive I was unable to turn it around in time, I have ridden an eleven footer a few times but this feels much bigger.
Here comes a wave I start paddling with what seemed like no chance at all of catching it, this board is such a good paddler not a wobble just straight line speed and before I knew it I was on the wave,
standing and racing down the face with complete control, which was surprising, it now felt smaller, still big, but smaller, one step forward and it takes off planeing so stable and smooth not feeling any back wash or anything.
Seeing a section in the wave I crouched to absorb the impact and held my breath...
there was no impact, and upon opening my eyes I noticed I was around the section and still going, one step back and into a cutback, surprise again this board can turn!
I wonder what the fin is like... Back into the whitewash I try to turn and the board has other plans and goes straight.
Popping up after being dragged along behind the board underwater I realise I had forgotten to breathe again - after that section my heart was racing with adrenalin.
Struggling to stand or walk I dragged myself onto dry land so I could take a look at my new love.
This board is such a work of art beautiful to look at and ride, I'm so happy I got some swell to try it out on, but I'm upset we chose its last day in town to begin our love affair.
Thanks for the ride... shaka."