So this morning Brighton was meaty and not clean or alluring in any way. The hell paddle looked decidedly un-worth the effort...
So I shipped off to scarbs / taylors. Taylors was mediumish high tide crap and crumble with three guys out and nobody gettting a wave. Was going to bag it totally but got tempted on my way back down the hill by some sets out the back.
Paddled out scarbs, sat the back for quite a long time, going after sets breaking out twenty yards beyond the end of the headland... they proved to be mythical ghostwaves and I wound up finding purchase on only one, and it was essentially a great big foamball ride.
Inside for ages paddling after wave after wave that looked choice but proved gutless and unbroken. Finally went well inside and got one decent wall about head high on the inner bank reform. Called it a day. That place is always an exercise in frustration at the sheer lack of power and pitch.... even worse on the olo. It definitely dislikes fat mushy waves....
Standing by my car after the sesh a pack of groms came by and one said "Is that the Olo?"
I was a bit surprised as the kid was only about 10 years old... I said "yeah, it is"...
"How'd you get it?"
I said "it's come back from Dunedin recently with some mates"
"Oh... so you know Baccy? Shane Baccy? I hang out with him, and he was surfing it down in Dunedin a few weeks ago..."
I grinned... "Nope, never met the guy but I know of him and seen the photos from his ride.."
"Is it hard to ride?"
"Not too bad, once you get the hang of it".
And other small talk.
Another group of groms passing by oggled the thing as they went and I heard one of them utter somthing that ended in "...LEGEND board!"
This board's growing its own cult following.
