Noseriding and cross stepping is detrimental to longboard design
Noseriding is a recent abomination which the innocent surfers pre 1950 didn't have to worry about. . . . they could just ride waves without having to do certain prescribed actions in order to be socially acceptable.There are many technical easons why noseriding is silly, the main one being that it slows the board down.As for shuffling, it's way more efficient than cross stepping. How many boxers do you see cross stepping ? Cross stepping is ugly, unstable and dysfunctional.This whole 'good style' thing is ridiculous , there's no such thing as good style there's only wave riding, all this extra social baggage applied to it is just a useless burden.It's like saying that there's a 'kosher' style of meditation . . . . surfing is like meditation it's where you are at that counts not what people on the beach think you look like according to their highly socialised fashion sense. . . it's just BEING THERE that counts.Being one with the wave is the opposite of trying to adopt a socially acceptable 'style'.Worrying about appearances prevents the surfer from becoming one with the wave.Being there is not a style !blog directory
Labels:
cross stepping,
noseriding,
shuffling,
style,
surfing meditation