Was surfing at Dunes this morning – some fun little rights in the corner for an hour or so. On the long walk back along the beach and the treadmill dunes my mind flipped back 30 years to a summer spent surfing Dunes with the Upper Deck crew, Steve, Nigel, Simon, French Richie, Victor, Phil et al… It was the second summer on twin fins, thrusters were just about to break, everyone was riding Ocean Magic swallowtail twinnies from Nigel. I typically was going in the opposite direction (trying to find my body-English) with a 6’6” Martin Geary Outer Limits spiral-V round pintail with a chequered deck and blue faded rails. It was a summer of long clean swells with crystal lips and azure water… and snogging in the dunes with Helena Kowalski… I wonder what happened to her?
