The Baron project 3

Here the mid section of the panel which was glued yesterday is ready for the nose components and most of the tail. The tail will be done in two sessions to avoid creep.Mixing 100mls of resin at a time, about 700 to 800mls are required for the entire panelResin is spread on to both sides of each block, rather than on to the frames. No marking is needed this way. If glue is applied to the frames they need to be marked to show where it should be applied, which is tedious.Glue is squeezed out gently, with a see saw motion.The Baron 12 foot power surfboard may well be described as the Rolls Royce of luxury expensive wave riding craft !To be continued . . .. . .

The Baron 12 footer project 2

Internal frame panel #1 this one will support the deckAfter laying out the blocks and frames for the middle section of the panel, we secure the frame and blocks at one end of the section we are about to glue together, and then pull the rest of the components back a little bit to allow enough room to work.The ends of the panel have not yet been made, Gluing tends to make the panel creep in length, so it's best to make the middle of the panel first and then add the ends afterwards.Gluing commences, using epoxy resin and paulownia sanding dustSheet plastic keeps the bricks which hold everything in place from bonding to the woodThe nose is added. . . and now the tail

The Baron Project

This one's to a favourite design frst built in 2003. She's 12 feet by 27 inches wide by 2.5 inches thick, with a roundtail, an 8 inch tunnel and a bulb tipped flex fin.The Baron was designed prior to the SUP craze, and as far as I know was one of the first longboard designs to take advantage of widths in the 27 inch range. The widest longboards at the time were no wider than 25 inches and the majority were 21 or 22 inches. Some might call it cheating to make such an incredible wave catcher, but we don't mind ! The board is a prone paddling surfboard which will roast the tail feathers of any SUP, and can reach speeds of over 30mph with ease. Here the planshape has been marked on the paper scroll, and we are adding the lines inside and outside of the planshape, which show where the rail blocking must goThe first blocks and frames being cut and laid out, the wood grain in the blocks and the frames are set at 45 degrees to the centreline