Takin a Break

So its been 20 ft for over a week so I took a break and went down Island. Just a little tactical strike mission. 2 days 12 hours of driving 8-9 hours of surf and freezing my ass off while sleeping in my truck. I am quite beat after that. I never go down there but it is quite beautiful and surprisingly different than Tofino. I say my first black bear of the season chillin on a clear cut out by Port Renfrew. Its been a very warm winter so i hope they are doing ok. All in all I scored great waves both days. First day surfed with a bunch of angry people at a point break and second with four guys at a overhead reeling river mouth. So I am getting back to work new pics soon I hope.