I was so excited to surf it the first day, that I picked up Levi and bolted to the beach... forgetting to get my wetsuit. The sun was just setting, so it was a do-or-die decision. Needless to say I paddled out at Blackies in trunks on Monday evening.
The water wasn't as cold as I had anticipated. I surfed for 30 or 40 minutes until it was too dark. I was so excited about the new log, that I don't even think I touched the water. I was skipping across the surface while I paddled out. Big thanks to Ronnie for letting me steal his wave to get my first solid noseride on it.
