Why 19 feet ? A question from Downsouth

Roy - I understand that with the extra length, there will be an increase in flex but at 19 feet - surely the extra length will severly limit the size or shape of waves it can surf?

It will simultaneously limit the waves which can be surfed and open up new territory which can be surfed.

So it depends upon the point of view, a hidebound pessimist would say that it is limiting, a creative optimist will say that it is liberating.

very long boards in hollow waves, 20ft plus paddle skis have been tubed at Burleigh heads for example, but of course the length does limit the turning arcs so one has to be committed.!

I guess a realist will see it being a bit of both. What is the idea behind the length at 19ft though - is it solely to open up the possibility of riding waves that other boards cannot? If so - what kind of waves?

I guess I'm just curious to the purpose of this board as your other designs seem in my mind, to have a focus.

It's definitely focussed in my mind, but that doesn't mean that everyone understands it.

The benefits of greater length and flex have to be experienced to be properly understood. I've had two very long boards with a thickness to length ratio of around 1/100 ( a 14'9" and a 13'9" ) and the experience riding them is one I'd like to repeat.

Length wise, it's an exploration of the joys and advantages of greater length. When I went from 9 feet to 12 in 1997, the results were amazing. From 12 up to 13, 14, 15 and 17 feet all opened up new capabilities, and given that the ancient olo boards were ridden  up to 25 feet long, we think that 19 and 21 feet will be very useful lengths.

I realise that this doesn't answer your question. If you really want it answered then the only way is to do it physically, as words can disect the experience but cannot transmit the feeling ( at least not with my writing skills)  . . that's the method I use and it is very rewarding.

Of  course I haven't ridden the board yet so  I can't give a complete answer, at this stage it's all extrapolation, projection and anticipation. I definitely feel  a sense of trepidation when. visualising riding the Olo of the Sun, as i know what it feels like to take off on a 17 footer . . . chilled but excited, and definitely committed, like piloting a dropping bomb perhaps.

The weight is a vital part of the equation too. . . a very long surfboard needs mass, and mass is a major part of the experience.