My inspiration for surfing has always been to harmonise with the forces of nature, rather than to impose myself and my personality on them. It is what we call 'Pure Surfing'
. It is also known in Hawaii as the 'make it easy' school. Pure surfing is not the aim of the mass market surf industry, which prefers at all times to make surfing difficult and to attack waves rather than flowing with them.
Pure surfing consists of removing that which is not needed in order to achieve efficiency and economy of motion, so that the experience becomes as easy as breathing.
Nothing must come between you and the experience. This requires a fresh design philosophy, whereby art consists of perfect function.
Showing posts with label easy school. Show all posts
Showing posts with label easy school. Show all posts
The make it easy school of wave riding and the make it hard school of surfing.
There are two schools of thought: One is that one should make surfing as difficult as possible, the other is to make it as easy as possible.The make it difficult school has many members, the make it easy school has few.I prefer to make surfing as easy as possible, doing so does not stop the rider from learning it merely removes unecessary impediments to learning. When surfing is made easy one's attention and ability is able to be applied to subtleties which the difficult school don't have time or attention to understand. .. . it also enables one to make more waves.No matter how easy one makes surfing there are always challenges.Whatever you do, try to think for yourself, and treat all advice with extreme suspicion ( a paradox in this case
). Those who advise you are usually wanting to make sure that you join the herd, that is the main reason why they parrot the marketing myths of the day. They will try to tell you what is and isn't pleasurable or appropriate. One has to decide why one is surfing, most people do it just to be part of a group, but there are better reasons.Of course they deny all this but once one is alerted to their tactics it becomes clear what's going on.Breaking free of the intense social pressure exerted by the surfing group will cause one to be ostracised but ultimately grudgingly respected. To the true surfer the grudging respect is only useful because it keeps the herd out of the way while one takes off.. . it has no social value at all, nor does the ridicule.


Labels:
easy school,
hard school
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