Justbonzers Facebook

Justbonzers now on Facebook – http://www.facebook.com/justbonzers - plenty of pics in the galleries of resin tints and boards, and I'll try to add to this regularly. Had fun at the hand specialist today… prognosis on the finger not great; looking like i wont be sanding, foiling and other fun stuff for a while longer! Killing time and frustration with another run of t-shirts and hoodies for anyone who is interested. Orders via email.

This pic is of my McCoy nugget, somewhere in the Caribbean in 2004.

Drifter not bonzer

One of my favourite board designs in the single fin/twin fin/thruster transition years. I always wanted to try one, but never did… maybe one day. Hot Buttered Drifter by Terry Fitzgerald.

The Painted Lady

Art.
Abstract acrylic on foam by Jay dL—local charger, Puerto barrel enthusiast, inspired artist, informed horticulturist, slayer-of-all-boards, and rocker of pearl-snap full-yolked Western shirts. He can also fix your computer, lead pumpy trad climbs on steep granite, and brew a mean yerba mate. Clearly, a Renaissance man.
The board’s a tweaked-out, Northcoast-speficic 8ft. hull-inspired trim machine. 'Lighter Than Ice' blue tint and thinnest-of-thin white resin pinline by Leslie Anderson at Fatty Fiberglass, a hell of an artist in her own right.

Freeride at the Old Smithy…

Last night saw the screening of the rare and influential surf movie, Freeride, at The Old Smithy in Welcombe.

I did a little intro before the screening and for those who didn’t make it, I hope this gives a personal insight into a movie that spawned The Freeride Generation and changed the course of many peoples lives.

“It was the summer of 1978, I was 12, queuing with my brother Hugh and around 100 long haired pot smoking scruffs outside the Atlantic Hotel in New Polzeath... I was stood there next to my brother and the local lifeguard, Gavin Bassett who had been persuading my mother i was safe to surf had said i had to come along... so there I was, stood in line with a hoard of rowdy hooting surfers... I was already sold.

There was a sense of belonging at that event that changed my life; it’s why I’m here... kind of why we are all here.

The movie was the efforts of by Bill Delaney and water-cameraman Dan Merkel. Their slow motion water shots and on board cameras set new standards in sports photography that wouldn’t really be exceeded until much later with the likes of Riding Giants.

Sadly this movie is now rarely seen, issues over rights have confined it to all but a few collectors fortunate enough to own one of the rare original 16mm films that were played in the cinemas and halls around the world in the late 70s. This copy comes from someone that has one of these. You didn’t see this movie here tonight, and you may never see this movie again.

It's primarily a chronicle of Pipeline/Off the Wall during the Hawaiian winter of 1975 -'76, with some Australian and Indonesian segments thrown in for good measure. Its stars are Mark Richards, Wayne Bartholomew, Shaun Tomson, who were banging down the door of the Hawaiian old guard. This movie was, perhaps unfairly, most remembered for Shaun Tomson’s tube riding, which whilst incredible even by today’s standards overshadowed the performances of the more stylish and aggressive attacks of Rabbit and the most stylish and radical surfer of the era, Mark Richards who went on to win 6 World Championships.

For me the most incredible thing is that they are riding these awe inspiring North Shore waves on boards a bit like the one Richie has slung up over the bar round the corner, single fins with down rails, low rockers and thick beak noses. The boards seem to skip over every piece of chop, and chatter as they are nursed off the bottom and under the lip... with the exception of Mark Richards who somehow manages to look relaxed whatever the size, even at Waimea.

Later in 1994, I had the pleasure of meeting Shaun Thompson in the lineup at Jeffrey’s Bay. He dropped in on me, faded his bottom turn sticking me deep into the pit with nowhere to go. That was a hero busted for me. I later discovered he had given lectures all over the world on his “surfers code”, handing out cards with the code on one side and his clothing brand, Insight, on the other. Interestingly the code DIDN’T include “tho shalt not drop in”, but then he is a Saffa (joke).

I also got to see Rabbit surf at his home break in Oz when I was 18. (Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew got the nickname “rabbit” because as a kid he was this incredibly quick young footballer missing his 2 front teeth!) He was 12 years as a pro surfer on the tour, and with 1 world championship, but I’ll always remember him for his hands-behind-his-back barrels at Burleigh Heads... and he didn’t drop in on me!

I never did get to meet or surf with Mark Richards despite trips to Newcastle. He was known as “the Wounded Gul” for his low centre of gravity, knock-knees, arms outstretched style that seemed to be able to absorb the largest of chops without fluster and enabled him to surf the largest of waves with the most relaxed yet radical style. I can’t see him dropping in either though.

Anyways enjoy the movie... You didn’t see this movie here tonight, and you may never see this movie again...”

The Riddler – REVO5 bonzer

This board was inspired by some of the most significant influences on my shaping… Malcolm Campbell’s bonzers of course, a little bit of McCoy’s loaded dome Nuggets and a healthy dose of Cheyne Horan’s boards and the spitfire theories from Revolution...

6’2” x 20 1/2” x 2 7/8” – rolled deck with pinched rails. Rolled V boat-nose into vortex channel inside rolled V, exiting into a panel V through the tail. REVO bonzer spitfire sides and  a McCoy gullwing centre fin. Can be ridden as a Single fin or as a REVO5.

The REVO sides are using the fluid dynamic theories more popular in sailing after the Ben Lexcan keel led the Australia II to the America’s Cup victory in 1980. One part of the theories is that a vertical keel has less resistance than a sloped one due to its reduced initial contact area. Anyways thought it was time to apply some of this to a board and inspired by something similar on a Revolution Board and with encouragement from Noel Whitman of Revolution the Riddler was born. Watch out for tweaks in the near future after its first wetting.

Hope you enjoy.

     

Nugget inspired bonzer… ready for finishing

  

6’2 x 20” x 2 7/8” vortex bottom with rolled V… designed for barrels, to be ridden as a single fin or as a bonzer (FCS B5s). This board was inspired by my Geoff McCoy Nugget which has delivered me into the best barrels of my life. Thought it was about time I applied some of his theories to a board of my own, with a few twists and turns based on my own ideas. Also need a name for this model – and have yet to find an inspired name… any suggestions?

11' er I shaped with ice green tint and glass on Daniel Partch single fin. Ready to go in a box and get shipped out.

Pig in a Shiny Blanket

The widepoint aft, narrow-nosed, rolled-bottom Pig got its name from cowboyin' enthusiast Dale Velzy, who likened its image to that of a pig when viewed from horseback. It's a time-enduring design, and a valid approach to Northcoast surfing.
Unlike the coastline south of Point Conception, the water up here goes from very deep to very shallow without much inbetween. Longboard design elements tend to focus more on controlling speed rather than generating it, especially during the takeoff and bottom turn, and the Pig does this quite well.
It's pulled-in nose adds some curve to the planshape, and fits into a steep curl more decisively. The rear widepoint is an excellent command center, and, in addition to getting into the wave earlier, sets an authoritative line when combined with the 'D' fin and bottom curves.
This particular model is the product of an ongoing effort with Leslie to squeeze the square peg of the design into the round hole of our Northcoast waves. She wrapped this pig into a classy volan blanket, glassed on the fin so skillfully foiled by the good folks at Rainbow Fin Co., lay down a matching resin deck pinline, then polished her up good.
Speaking of coasts, I'm on the east one right now. Did you know that sometimes in New England you have to use your car's A/C at night? I shit you not.

Lot to be said for getting in early…

7’0” x 19 1/4” x 3” McCoy Nugget, 8” single “knuckle” fin; 2004, “Fat Left” Banyaks

Off To Mexico

Board #8 is now in the books.

Its been a long time coming but I finally finished up this 5'9'' Single Fin. So now its off to Mainland Mex with my friend to be put to the test. A week in Mexico with nothing but empty left hand point breaks gives me hope that the board will do just fine. I can't wait for my friend to get back to here some feedback on the board. Its funny you can try to design the board by concept and think it will work well but, at least for me, I never really know til I put it in the water. As long as it makes it the whole trip without any structural malfunctions I will be satisfied.

The final dimensions were, H5'9'' x N14 3/4" x W19 7/8" x T15 1/2" x 2 1/2"

- Bottom Close Up (Acrylic paint under the gloss coat)

- Bottom
- Deck

The Final Touches

Just finishing up the 5'9" Single Fin.

Here's one picture from the sanding coat. This was my first time using UV catalyzing resin and it works great. It allows for plenty of time during lamination which is great because i need as much time as i can get for wrapping the rails. I got all my materials from the guys at FOAM-EZ in westminister. Brad and the guys are super helpful and got plenty of tips for people new to glassing like me.



Here's another picture of the gloss coat. I am pretty please with how the board is turning out. Of course there is plenty of room for improvements but hey at least it will float.

As requested by Mckinney I painted a giant squid eating a ship on the bottom. Stay tuned for pictures of that soon.

All time favourite…

Just loved this spray when i first saw it. Still love it today… Hot Stuff

Image of Rabbit, 1979, from Australian SW #178

a lovely McCoy

I came across this pic of Cheyne Horan with an absolutely epic early 80s single fin double wing swallow and just had to post it… something about the clean lines and simplicity in surfing that it represented…

meanwhile I’m busy getting 3 boards ready for this Saturday’s Surf Jumble at St Merryn… if you are in the area stop by for a cuppa and check out the Porpoise which should be finished and ready for some test rides.

Alpine Horn

This new little ink drawing has become the new logo for the 5'9'' single fin surfboard that is still in the works. One step closer with this lam. This came about from some brainstorming with my friend and I. Swiss Alpine Horn men never get the respect they deserve.

Check back for more updates on the single fin surfboard. Glassing should start soon.

Just bonzers… and a couple of single fins

My current mobile quiver… on the left 8’2” Supaglide trihull single fin (for sale), on the top the new 6’4” FreakFish, underneath an MC 6’0” Bumble bee Bonzer 3 but with an 8” Soulflex (which I find works much better backhand on the 3 fin set up), and on the bottom a 6’4” McCoy Nugget with a Starfin which gets wet whenever the waves get really hollow and the only order of the day is barrel riding…

McCoy nugget single fins

Still the best barrel riders in my opinion – here’s me tucking under a curtain at Lighthouse, somewhere in the Caribbean. I love their neutrality and ability to hold an unbelievably high and tight line… not a bonzer but what led me to them… definitely going to drag this one out of the bag next time we get a hollow high tide session at Connies… perhaps even at “Scalps”…

Supaglide gets wet…

8’2” x 21 1/16” x 2 7/8” – trihull  single fin. Catches waves really easily, beautiful take offs, glides smoothly and turns from any where on the board. Hope to make some more of these for those people who want the advantages of a long board but don’t want to have to adapt their style. This is a test board so if you want to try it just let me know, and you can take it for a spin. It is also available for sale, huge saving at £600, used but as new.  £350 now well used but still in good condition and rides beautifully. Everyone who has tried seems to have got barreled on it which can't be bad!
  

6'0" single fin with a tapered stringer custom for Yasuyuki.

This one is just right for me but I can't have it.

Waves Forever customer.

Airing out the Inbox

Sophocles once quipped, “The true mark of a man lies in his email activity.” Amen. Modern social anthropologists, like yourselves, long ago forsook sifting through the garbage of humanity in search of answers, choosing instead to focus their lenses of scientific voyeurism onto more digital affairs. Is someone aligning themselves with terrorists? Check their email. Is there one amongst us who shops Amazon with Les Affaires abandon? It’s in the inbox. Do thoughts of adding girth to his flaccid schvantz occupy the lion’s share of your teenager’s time? I wouldn’t recommend it, but a quick AOL search would reveal the answer. You see, only email can fill in the blank spaces on the map our character.
That is why, under the banner of honesty and full disclosure, every third Tuesday I fling open the doors of the HHG inbox from the past few weeks. Onward into the unknown!

Dear HHG,
Is it possible my husband Paul ordered another board from you within the last month? I ask because there’s a blue longboard with double pinlines in the garage that I haven’t seen before. When I ask him about it, he just mumbles and points at our son. He's eight.
Thank you,
Paul’s Wife Who Is Saving Up For The Down Payment On A New House
Dear PWWISUPFTDPOANH,
Under the Shaper’s Disclosure Act of 1999, it is not compulsory for me to answer your query. However, I will say that as of last week, Paul is one step closer to a free sandwich*. Also, when he picked up something the other day (not saying what it was that he slipped into his new 9’6 board bag), he did mention how much he loved you, and how understanding you are. Maybe not in those exact words, but still.
*The HHGSC (HeadHighGlassySandwichClub) offers a free sandwich** from Traverso's, a Santa Rosa tradition for four generations, for customers who reach a certain number of board orders. In order to stave off a run on new orders, I won't give the exact number, though it's between five and seven.
**Sandwich includes one (non-alcoholic) drink, but no chips, as chips are ridiculous.
This may, or may not be your husband's new stick.

Dear HHG,
Is Shakespeare’s Sonnet 73 the best fall-related ode?
Yours in poetry,
Tina from Marina

Hi TfM,
No. It is clear Shakespeare never visited California during this most lovely of seasons when he penned, “when yellow leaves, or none, or few do hang/Upon those boughs which shake against the cold…”
Instead, let me recommend Keats’ To Autumn. At just 24 years old, he nailed it right from the opener: “Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness…”
Huzzah!

HHG,
How do you know when you’re getting old?
Fondly,
Humbolt-er Every Day

HED,
Do you make strange noises when you sit down?
Do you ever wish your board were 2” thicker?
Have you ever opted out from a surf session to work in your vegetable garden?
Wait, that might just be me...

Dear HHG,
I’m thinking about relocating—does Sonoma County have good surf?
Sincerely,
California Dreamin’

Dear CD,
No, SoCo does not have good surf. Especially last week.
San Diego does, though!
What we do have is excellent wine. Let me recommend Trentadue’s Old Patch Red (2005). A 2008 Sonoma County Harvest Fair winner in Best of Class, and a steal at Bottle Barn right now for $9.99. The convenient screw top makes it even more appealing as a daily drinker.

And with that, I seal the HHG inbox for another month.
Don’t forget this Thursday’s Surf Movie Night at Santa Rosa’s Toad ‘n The Hole Pub in historic Railroad Square. This month’s feature is going to be solid. Festivities begin around darkish.

Twins

Ever since the first zygote divided into two separate embryos, humans have reserved special places in their rites and mythologies for twins.
The Igbo peoples of Nigeria saw twins as a curse, and would sacrifice them to the forest (as detailed in Chinua Achebe’s excellent novel Things Fall Apart).
The Navajo honor twins as descendants of the twin gods of sun and moon, believing that they will help restore order to the chaos of the world.
Americans like to stick a fake goatee on one of them and call them Evil.
Dr. Spock’s evil twin showed up in 1967, sporting the trademark Evil-Twin Beard.
Cartman's evil twin broke social boundaries, becoming the first elementary school kid with an Evil-Twin Beard to go prime time.
Surfers have our own preoccupacy with twins--twin fins, twin pins, Twinzers, the Hobgoods. Even our own Leslie Anderson isn't immune to their thrall, as evidenced by a pair of longboards that recently left her shop.
Jason's diamond tail log with 3/4" red cedar stringer seems to have shared some embryonic developing time with its twin below, blogged about here:
Both were shaped by hand in Sonoma county with smaller Northcoast waves in mind . Both feature single fin goodness, volan glasswork, and resin art by Leslie.
But what is perhaps most intriguing about twins is how they differ--which one is more popular with the ladies, which one is more fearless in the hockey rink, which one dances with their tongue out.
The differences in the above boards are equally intriguing—the bigass cedar stringer vs. the high density foam one, the diamond tail vs. the rounded pin, the clean shaven vs. the goateed one (one of these is not actually a design feature).
Although some may see one of the above boards as an evil incarnation of the other, I prefer the Navajo interpretation that twins are two parts of the same whole. That they, together, can separate the good from the evil, and order where before existed only chaos.
Or at least score us some waves when it’s head high or under.